A Stay at Umi no Auberge Shitsumi: A Coastal Ryokan Retreat

Gourmet Guide

A Michelin Hideaway in the Rain — Our Spirited Sojourn to Auberge Shitsumi

Auberge Shitsumi, a coastal inn tucked in Obama (no, not *that* Obama), graced the pages of the Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021 Special Edition. And when our friends, the Tohru couple, decided to stay there—well, how could we not follow suit?

Though we traveled separately, we began our own mini-adventure at the mountaintop park of Rainbow Line. The view? Enchantingly mysterious, cloaked in weather drama.

Misty scenic view from Rainbow Line summit park

It was freezing—but behold! The cherry blossoms were out in full defiance of the cold. Bless my winter jacket.

Cherry blossoms blooming in cold weather

With time on our hands, we made a pilgrimage to Tsunegami Shrine on the Tsunegami Peninsula. A tempest greeted us, but we bowed respectfully anyway—because that’s how you court travel karma.

Rainy entrance to Tsunegami Shrine

Since we were already there… why not venture to the very tip of the peninsula? Ah yes, these inns—I swear I’ve been here before. Maybe with the late T-kun and the crew. But this time? Landslides, monkeys, and a ghost-town silence. Spooky.

Desolate tip of Tsunegami Peninsula with abandoned inns

We longed to see the mystical Goshima Island, a secret spot along the Kinki Ley Line—but alas, the rain turned our ambitions soggy. No hike today.


Back on safer roads, we cruised toward the base of the peninsula, where a quaint fishing village came into view—and there it was: Auberge Shitsumi.

Auberge Shitsumi nestled in a coastal fishing village

Check-in time! We snagged a second-floor room with an ocean view, while Tohru’s room was on the first floor—wider windows, more lounging space. Both felt like someone’s well-kept house. Cozy, familiar… perhaps too familiar?

Simple guest room with ocean view

The lobby offered a sprinkle of traditional flair.

Lobby of Auberge Shitsumi with rustic charm

We were then guided to the dining area, a separate building—cue umbrella deployment.

Path to dining hall in the rain

Honestly, it felt like navigating a rural escape room.

Maze-like path between buildings at Auberge Shitsumi

Our guide turned out not to be staff, but a short-term traveler from the “Otetsutabi” project—exploring Japan while lending a hand. The world is definitely changing.


After a bit of downtime, we headed to dinner. This, too, was served in a beautifully remodeled old home—airy, scenic, charming.

Cozy renovated dining space with sea view

Dining room interior at Auberge Shitsumi

They had a cabinet full of alcohol that made my inner bartender giddy. Might replicate that at home… someday.

Sake and liquor shelf at dining area

First course: sashimi. Pristine simplicity.

Fresh sashimi plate

We began with white wine—alas, no photo. Rookie mistake.

Sake menu at Auberge Shitsumi

Second drink: Heartland Beer by Kirin. Crisp, reliable.

Heartland beer served with dinner

Tohru’s sake tasting flight included Hayaseura, Wakasa, and Kokuryu. I sampled each—sublime!

Sake tasting flight at dinner

Next up: carpaccio.

Seafood carpaccio with herbs

Grilled oysters—absolutely nailed it. The cuisine wasn’t strictly Michelin-level Italian anymore; perhaps a post-COVID pivot?

Grilled oysters served for dinner

Fugu soup—though they called it a hotpot. Still, not quite a hotpot.

Fugu fish soup served in ceramic pot

Octopus rice, the salty exclamation point to our sea-themed meal.

Octopus rice with seasonal garnish

By the time we wrapped up, night had fully fallen. And yes, the rain was still composing its symphony.

Night view with raindrops and outdoor lights

We fell asleep to the lullaby of waves.


Morning brought blue skies—finally. We ventured out for a stroll before breakfast.

There it was—the nostalgic sign of a bygone guesthouse era. Our room’s name, “ROOM KYUBEE,” made perfect sense now.

Old signage of the former guesthouse

We reached the shore. Fishing village vibes, crystal clear.

Coastal view of the fishing village

Panoramic view of the sea and village

Looking up at the dining hall from below—it’s cherry blossom season in full bloom.

Cherry blossoms near dining hall exterior

And breakfast? Smoked dried fish and fermented mackerel grilled right at our table. Heavenly. The rice was cooked in a traditional pot—warmth in every bite.

Traditional Japanese breakfast with grilled fish and rice

Close-up of grilled fish and steaming rice

I usually skip breakfast—but I devoured it all.

Finished breakfast dishes on the table

And that, my friends, was our coastal escape.

“Live, travel, adventure, bless, and don’t be sorry.” — Jack Kerouac

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